Mr. Myagi's Floorboard Mod
Mr. Myagi's Floorboard Mod
  The following is a brief set of instructions on how to modify your stock pegs and create your own set of floorboards.

  I'm including a few photos to demonstrate the appearance. The previous photos I sent to Zero200 & Sam weren't sized properly for standard monitor resolutions. These photos are 300x400 and are compressed for quick downloading.

1.  The first thing you need to do is determine how long and wide you'd like your own boards to be on the bike. I've seen different size and shape boards but 4.25" x 12" would probably be the maximum width and length unless you are changing your foot controls. (this is getting into a whole different area and more expense)

2.  I located a piece of aluminum flat bar at a local metal dealer 24" length x 4.25" wide x 3/8" thick. This was enough for 2 boards when cut in half. (the thickness could probably be 1/4" but I wouldn't go any thinner - you need the material thick enough for the mounting screws to be countersunk when you are bolting the plates to your modified pegs. Be prepared to shell out $30 - $40 for a good piece of aluminum flat bar. If you're lucky, you might find a discarded piece of polished aluminum diamond plate. This would look really nice.

3.  It'll help to have a buddy with you for the remainder of the prep work. I'll assume that most ACE owners attempting this mod don't have their own machine shops.

4.  Get your bike out in the driveway and using a fine tip permanent marker or equivalent, have your buddy hold the edge of the flat bar against the end of the peg and carefully eyeball and mark the angle you would like your boards to be mounted on the peg. Remember to include an "L" somewhere on the left peg and "R" for right. You DON'T want them being reversed IMPORTANT- this is the most critical stage because when the board is attached to the peg you won't want it to interfere with your left toe fitting between the underside of the shifter and the front of the board. Give it about 2.5 " of vertical clearance (this will allow for larger boots) Likewise - the angle on the right side should allow for adequate downward movement all the way down of the foot brake. On my bike - the boards were only tilted back approx 5 degrees. I find this is a comfortable angle when riding.

5.  Cut and shape your boards so that they are mirror identical. Having access to a bandsaw and an angle grinder helps. See the photos. I cut my piece of flatbar in half then I cut off a corner on the rear side so that they sweep back on a taper toward the rear. What you decide to do with the shape is a matter of personal tastes but keep in mind, the board should have adequate surface to support your foot front to rear while riding. I found the tapered shape works well and supports your foot well (this is the main thrust behind having a floorboard anyway). 6.  Remove your stock pegs and taking care not to wipe off the markings you made, removed the rubber grommets (you can cut them off or slip them off using a small screwdriver)

7.  Take your pegs and boards to a good machine shop. Explain to the machinist that you need to mill a flat surface lengthwise across the top of the peg. You'll want a flat mounting surface approx 3/4" wide to attach your board to. Because the peg is a cylindrical object, grabbing it in the mill's vice might cause the machinist some concern. Again, a good machinist will not be concerned about this. He'll know what to do to set it up.

8.  After both pegs are milled, you need to attach your boards with bevel head machine screws through the top of the board into the peg. We marked, centre-punched and drilled three 1/4" holes though the boards about 1" apart across the width of the board. Use a countersink so that the heads of the screws will recess flush with the top of the board.  Note - the holes are drilled 4.250 " from the front of the board. This is to ensure proper clearance and board/toe distance for the shifter lever and brake pedal.

9.  Line up and clamp the boards to the pegs at right angles ( watch you don't accidentally place the boards on the wrong side peg ) The holes in the boards should be lined up directly over the centreline of the peg.

10.  Mark the pegs through the holes of the boards, centre punch, and drill the pegs with a 7/32" bit. I would recommend all the holes be drilled on a drill press using a vice or clamp. You're not likely to get three perpindicular holes if you try this with a hand drill. Note - don't drill all the way through the peg. If you have a depth stop on your drill press, set it to drill 13/16" depth. If you break through, it's no big deal.

11.  Tap the holes with a good 1/4" tap and attach the boards tightly with the machine screws. Use a little bit of Locktite on the threads first.

12.  File or sand your corners smooth and polish them up if you like.

13.  Purchase some skateboard "grip tape" at your local skateboard shop (you're looking at about $10 max). Trim the grip board tape so that you leave about 1/4" of even border all the way around the outside of the board. (Note - you can be creative here if you want and make some sort of design in the tape before it is applied to the board - if you make a mistake or don't like the design - peel it off and start over ) It sticks pretty good though so you might need a heat gun to soften the adhesive.

14.  Reattach the pegs to the bike with the springs and pin and get back to riding it.

Regards

Mr Myagi
Photographs



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